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Project Summary
- Hours of Operation: 4 to 6 hours
- Overall Duration: 4 hours and 30 minutes
- Output: 64 square feet of temporary partition.
- Proficiency Level: Intermediate
- Projected Expense: $75 to $125
Constructing a temporary wall allows you to establish additional space and enhance privacy within a matter of hours and at a reasonable expense. You can utilize a temporary wall to set up a home office, conceal pipes or water heaters, hide laundry zones, or divide sections in completed basements.
What constitutes a temporary wall?
In a house, walls can be categorized as either load-bearing or non-load-bearing. Load-bearing walls are typically found along the exterior of the house, although they can also appear as interior walls. Conversely, a temporary wall is classified as non-load-bearing, as it does not support any weight from the structures above it, only its own weight.
- No electrical cables or plumbing tubes.
- Detachable, featuring only slight, easily fixable damage to the walls, floors, or ceiling.
- Constructed on the ground and then raised into position.
- Drywall may remain partially completed, lacking tape or joint compound.
Applications for a Temporary Partition
- Split a child’s room to make space for an additional bed.
- Block off a section that is undergoing extensive renovations.
- Transform a spacious room into a dedicated home office by dividing it into distinct areas.
- Conceal sewage pipes by fitting around them to keep them out of view.
- In laundry areas, to conceal dryer vents, cables, or plumbing.
- In completed basements, temporary spaces can be established.
Laws, Standards, and Licenses
Numerous communities mandate obtaining building permits for all kinds of walls, including temporary, non-structural ones. Reach out to your local permitting authority to find out about the requirements for permits related to temporary walls.
Safety Factors to Keep in Mind
Given its weight, a temporary wall must be constructed on a sturdy foundation. Depending on the wall’s dimensions, ceiling or floor joists might not be able to support its weight. A concrete slab foundation is suitable for supporting a temporary wall. Avoid placing any electrical components, such as wires, light switches, or outlets, within the temporary wall.
Warning
A dependable method for stabilizing the temporary wall is to use fasteners at both the top and bottom. To attach the bottom plate to a concrete floor, employ a powder-actuated nail gun.
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Requirements for Your Task
Devices / Instruments
- Power miter saw
- Rotary cutting tool
- Battery-operated drill
- Hammer
- Measuring tape
- Pencil and permanent marker
- Gypsum board knife
- Art materials for painting
- Box cutter
Materials
- Nine 8-foot two-by-fours.
- A rigid foam insulation panel measuring 1/4 inch thick and 18 feet in length.
- Four sheets of drywall, measuring 4 feet by 8 feet.
- One box of galvanized nails, measuring 2.5 inches in length.
- A package of drywall screws, measuring 1 5/8 inches in length.
- 1 container of drywall joint compound
- 1 roll of drywall tape made from paper
- 1 gallon of drywall primer
- 1 gallon of interior latex-acrylic paint
- 1 pressure-treated 2×4 (optional)
- One bottle of woodworker’s adhesive.
- Ten 5-inch lag screws.
- One box of 2.5-inch screws.
Instructions
Identify the wall area and assess the height of the ceiling.
Using a tape measure, determine the height of the ceiling. For the purposes of this project, we will consider the ceiling height to be eight feet. Besides ensuring the wall is positioned on a sturdy foundation, it is important to place it in a location that provides at least four points for attachment. This could be positioned either perpendicular to the joists or directly beneath and in line with a joist or beam.
Trim the wall studs.
To prepare vertical wall studs, utilize a miter saw or a circular saw to trim seven two-by-fours to a length of 92-1/2 inches. This measurement takes into consideration the thickness of the top and bottom plates, as well as the foam spacers. Be sure to modify the length of your wall studs to match your specific ceiling height.
Trim the foam inserts.
Utilize one of the 8-foot 2×4 boards as a reference to outline three segments of rigid foam, measuring eight feet by 3-1/2 inches. Proceed to cut the foam using a utility knife.
Assemble the Wall Without Fastening
Position the two 96-inch 2x4s on the ground, ensuring they are parallel and spaced approximately 93 inches apart. These will serve as the top and bottom plates of the wall. Place two wall studs at each end, and then insert the remaining five studs in between the end studs. Indicate five 16-inch on-center locations for the middle studs, making sure to mark the same positions on both the top and bottom plates.
Secure the Upper and Lower Plates.
Using a hammer and nails, secure each stud between the top and bottom plates by driving nails directly through the plates and into the ends of the studs, instead of using a toe-nailing technique.
Tip
If you are fastening the bottom plate directly to a concrete floor, it should be constructed from pressure-treated wood to ensure durability.
Attach the bottom spacer using adhesive.
Using carpenter’s glue, attach the foam spacer to the bottom plate. Clean up any excess glue and allow it to dry completely. The spacer serves to prevent damage to the floor.
Elevate and Anchor the Wall to the Ceiling
With the help of a partner, lift the wall and position it correctly. Insert the two foam spacers at the top. Secure the wall to the ceiling at sturdy anchor points, like ceiling joists, using four 5-inch lag bolts equipped with washers.
Fasten the Wall to the Ground
Attach the bottom wall plate to the floor using 2-1/2-inch screws. Begin by creating pilot holes to avoid damaging the bottom plate or the flooring.
Warning
The temporary wall must be secured to both the floor and the ceiling using screws, as outlined in these guidelines. Avoid using a pressure-mount method to install the wall between the floor and ceiling.
Install the Drywall
Secure the drywall panels to the framing using a cordless drill and drywall screws. Complete the drywall installation to your preferred finish using drywall tape and joint compound.
Tip
If you anticipate that the temporary wall won’t be in place for an extended period, you might consider skipping the drywall compound. This choice will facilitate easier removal in the future, although it will lead to a less polished look while the wall is installed.
Steps to Take Apart the Temporary Wall
Any wall designed for temporary use will ultimately be taken down. To safely dismantle the temporary wall, follow these steps.
Take down the drywall.
Take off the drywall panels by unscrewing them. If you’ve previously filled the screw holes with drywall compound and painted over them, use a magnet to find the screws.
Remove the screws at the bottom.
Remove the screws that secure the bottom plate to the floor. If there are nails embedded in the concrete, detach the bottom plate, then use a multi-tool with a metal cutting blade to trim the leftover nails level with the concrete surface.
Remove the upper screws.
Loosen and take out the lag bolts located at the top.
Knock the Wall Over
Take off the two foam spacers located at the top. With the help of a partner, carefully lower the wall to the ground. Proceed to disassemble the wall.
Fill the Gaps
Fill the ceiling gaps with joint compound and then apply interior paint over them. Use wood filler to patch the holes in the floor.
When to Seek Professional Assistance
Reach out to a general contractor, a skilled carpenter, or a reputable repair service for assistance in constructing the temporary wall if the task exceeds your skill level.
